Building the Red Baron (Fokker DR1) fighter plane model kit - 

Stage 3

Build issues 4, 5, 6 & 7.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Additional tools used list:

1. Superglue or similar - I used HAFIXS - which is a professional version and I have just found out that they sell an agent to mix with the glue, to make it a filler - something I might try!            

2. Metal files (small) - these are used to "clean up" the castings and to remove any unsightly molding marks at the joints, which may otherwise spoil the finish.

3.  Cutting Mats - you may have noticed that the pictures on this site, have been produced with the use of self sealing cutting mats for the backgrounds. Not essential, but if you value your life, peace and quite and your dining table, these are a very good idea and from the right places - very cheap!

4. Progressive clamp (as opposed to spring clamps). these give very powerful pressures to parts which may prove difficult for spring clamps. They also exert pressure on surfaces which remain parallel to each other.

5. Two ceramic cup stands and two slightly heavy stones from the garden!!!!!

 

gun_parts.jpg (117183 bytes)The notable parts for the completion of one of the two guns, was the castings. These are provided with a satisfying level of detail and only a minimum of de-burring was required to the otherwise clean castings. These parts, once constructed should provide the quality of fitting to the model illustrated in the above picture. 

 

ply_components.jpg (145674 bytes)The adjacent picture gives an idea of the nature of the wooden cut sections as supplied and the sharpness of the laser cutting of even the smallest parts

 

When building the die cast gun parts, don't forget that the "superglue" goes off a lot quicker than the wood glue used so far (so mind your fingers). You also have to be fairly quick when aligning the parts. again when completed I was impressed with the finished gun, however their was no hole in the side to install the cartridge collector tube. this was resolved by the use of a 2mm drill and a round needle file until a good fit was achieved for this part.

 

gunbuilt.jpg (68443 bytes)As you can see from the picture, I have completed the gun  build, rather than completing a part build as suggested. It is my intention to spray all metal parts with grey metal primer, before hand or spray painting them with a satin black before hand painting the other colours suggested (for the ammunition clip etc.). 

wingendformer.jpg (91218 bytes)

Building the wing end as illustrated in issue 5, proved the most difficult so far. This is due to the need to bend one of the wing end sections into a slight curve. This is where the former I made to bend the limewood strips came into it's own. Using the smallest of the two formers on the block, the section was placed in warm water for a short period (not two long as I would imagine that the ply may delaminate) then it was clamped onto thwingendclamp.jpg (100560 bytes)e block with 2 progressive clamps and a spring clamp at the small end. These were left in place until the section was dry.

 

CAUTION - MAKE SURE THAT THE BEND IN THE RELEVANT SECTION, IS IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION - (double check the pictures in issue 5)!!

 

NOTE: The next build is the wing spar (issue 6). This follows the same build routine as the previous wing spar. I did not fully complete this part of the build as per the instructions, as some remedial action was required to deal with a slight warp noted along the spar's length (see next item). 

 

sparstraighten.jpg (118028 bytes)When glued together, the spar was clearly not true along it's length. As you will see from the picture, I used two cup stands and two stones from the garden placed on top of the incomplete spar (on a flat surface) once the two side sections and three small internal strengtheners had been glued  and taped together. This should allow the section to "dry" straight, ready for completion of the spar build.

 

The limewood strips which need to be fixedwingedgeclamps.jpg (82884 bytes) into the leading and trailing edges have been fitted. The fit in the leading edge was a tight fit and required only careful fitting and no clamping. Not so with the training edges. So to ensure that all of the strip is held in place whilst the glue sets, I have used a number of kitchen type spring clips (these are mine)!!

 

 

 

wingtip.jpg (115064 bytes)This is the wing with the wing tip fitted. It is now just a case of waiting for the next four issues to arrive.

 

 

 

21 May 2004